Guide to White Metals for Wedding & Engagement Rings

You know you want a white metal for your ring (maybe you've been calling it "silver"), but there are actually several different white metals to choose from, and they behave very differently. Silver, white gold, palladium, and platinum might all look similar at first glance, but understanding how each one holds up to everyday wear will help you find what works for your lifestyle and budget. And ironically, silver is actually the least durable option for a wedding or engagement ring.

The most important thing is finding a metal that feels right for you, one that matches your priorities around durability, price, hypoallergenic properties, and how it changes with time.

Below, we break down the most common white metals used in fine jewelry, including the ones we work with here at Aide-mémoire Jewelry.

White Metals We Work With

At Aide-mémoire, we typically work with:

• 10k, 14k, and 18k white gold
• Platinum
• Continuum sterling silver (for select pieces)
• Sterling silver (for select pieces)
• Palladium white gold (custom when sourcing allows)

White Gold

White gold is created by mixing pure gold (which is always yellow) with white metals such as nickel or silver to achieve its pale tone. Because it still contains pure yellow gold, it has a soft, warm undertone. I like to think of it as the French vanilla of metals. Personally, I love the subtle warmth of white gold; it has a richer depth than platinum, palladium, or silver.

Most commercial jewelry companies rhodium plate white gold to make it look bright white like platinum. We don't rhodium plate our jewelry because rhodium wears off in about a year and must be reapplied regularly. Plus, we think the natural color of white gold is beautiful on its own.

Gold content by karat:

• 14k contains 58.5% pure gold
• 10k contains 41.7% pure gold
• 18k contains 75% pure gold

Traditional white gold alloys contain nickel, which is important to be aware of because nickel is a common metal allergen. If you're unsure, you can do a home nickel test (search online for how to do this safely).

Special White Gold Alloys

• Grade 1 or X1 White Gold: A higher nickel content gives it a brighter white color closer to platinum.
• Palladium White Gold: Nickel is replaced with palladium, creating a more hypoallergenic alloy with a subtle mauve undertone.

What makes white gold special:

• Hard and rigid
• More resistant to scratching than platinum or palladium
• Durable for everyday wear

Things to consider:

• Traditional and X1 white gold contains nickel (a common allergen)
• Slowly wears away over time, especially prongs and settings
• Color varies – many commercial jewelers rhodium plate white gold to make it look brighter white; we don't, so you see the actual alloy color

Our recommendation: As for the gold alloys, we typically recommend 14k as the "goldilocks" option – more durable and less expensive than 18k, and less likely to tarnish than 10k.

When white gold makes sense: You want a strong, scratch-resistant ring with a soft, warm tone and don't have nickel sensitivities.

Platinum

Platinum is a naturally white metal that's denser, grayer than silver or white gold. It's often considered the most durable precious metal used in fine jewelry because it's more resistant to wear and corrosion, however it is not as hard and rigid as white gold. It's also hypoallergenic and requires minimal maintenance over time.

When the word platinum (also PT or plat) is used in jewelry without qualifiers, it must contain at least 95% pure platinum.

What makes platinum special:

• Does not wear away – the metal displaces rather than being removed when scratched
• Retains its weight and shape over decades
• Hypoallergenic (no nickel or common irritants)
• Doesn't tarnish
• Bright, neutral white color
• Dense, premium feel

Things to consider:

• The most expensive white metal
• Shows scratches and patina more quickly than white gold
• Doesn't hold a high polish as long as white gold
• Is more malleable and has less spring than white gold

Understanding platinum's properties: People often ask which is harder, platinum or white gold. It's not an apples-to-apples comparison because they have very different properties. White gold is harder and more scratch-resistant so that it may look newer longer. But over decades, white gold gradually loses metal, while platinum retains its mass. The metal just moves around rather than wearing away.

When platinum makes sense: You want a lifelong ring that develops character with time, prefer low-maintenance durability, or have metal sensitivities.

Platinum vs White Gold for Stone Settings

Platinum and white gold behave very differently. Platinum is softer and less springy than 14k white gold, which means prongs can pull open more easily, and it's not suitable for designs that rely on tension or spring, like friction-fit ear backs. White gold, on the other hand, is harder and more rigid, so it resists scratching and bending better – but that rigidity also means it can be more brittle.

In prong settings, white gold prongs gradually wear away and thin over time, making them weaker and more prone to snagging or breaking. Platinum prongs don't wear away the same way; instead, the metal displaces and smooshes over the stone, which can actually tighten the setting as it wears. However, if a platinum prong does catch on something, it's more likely to bend away from the stone rather than snap.

Because of these differences, white gold prongs usually need to be re-tipped more often than platinum ones, but platinum prongs are more likely to bend if bumped or snagged.

Palladium

While we no longer work with palladium, it is worth mentioning for comparison. Palladium belongs to the platinum family and shares many of the same characteristics, such as durability, tarnish resistance, and hypoallergenic properties. In addition to being used in jewelry, it has often been used in catalytic converters. It's a white metal that is slightly grayer than platinum and roughly one-third the weight of platinum.

Why we no longer use it: Palladium prices have risen, and sourcing has become difficult, making it impractical for us to continue offering it.

Sterling Silver

Silver is the brightest white of all precious metals and the most affordable. Sterling silver is an alloy containing at least 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% copper. The copper adds strength, since pure silver is extremely soft.

What makes it special:

• Bright white color
• Does not contain nickle
• Lightweight
• Most affordable white metal
• Develops a natural patina over time

Things to consider:

• Very soft and prone to scratching, bending, and wear
• Tarnishes easily
• Not ideal for long-term daily wear

When sterling silver makes sense: We don't usually recommend silver for wedding bands because it's so soft. However, there are a few reasons you might choose a sterling silver band:

• For a masculine engagement ring or starter wedding band
• If you tend to lose jewelry and want something lower-stakes
• To test a ring size or style before ordering a more valuable piece

Because sterling bends easily, we recommend bands at least 4mm wide and 1.5mm thick.

Note: We only offer flush-set stones in sterling silver rings, not prong or raised settings, due to the metal's softness.

Continuum Sterling Silver

Continuum sterling silver contains at least 92.5% pure silver, like traditional sterling, but it's specially formulated for higher hardness and tarnish resistance. After fabrication, we heat-harden the metal in a kiln, increasing its strength to a level between 14k gold and regular sterling.

What makes it special:

• Stronger and more tarnish-resistant than traditional sterling
• Affordable alternative to white gold
• Bright white color (same as traditional sterling silver)
• Does not contain nickle
• Lightweight

Things to consider:

• Still softer than 14k gold
• Will show scratches and wear sooner than 14k gold
• Requires occasional maintenance

When Continuum makes sense: A great middle ground if you want a white metal band but aren't ready to invest in gold or platinum. Works well as a "starter band" that you will replace one day.

Choosing What's Right for You

Your ideal white metal depends on how you wear your jewelry, your budget, and your aesthetic preferences.

• For a budget-friendly option, choose Continuum sterling silver.
• For a classic fine jewelry look, 14k white gold offers timeless appeal.
• For maximum durability and longevity, platinum is the strongest choice.

Still Have Questions?

Each metal carries its own story, and we're always happy to help you find the one that fits your lifestyle and brings you joy to wear every day. 

Want to talk through your options? Send us a message or book a video consultation and we'll help you sort it out.